Thoroughly check your own property first. Look in cosy places, under beds, in wardrobes and anywhere else your pet may think it could get some rest, or could be hiding from a loud noise.

Ask your neighbours to check their sheds, garages, conservatories, greenhouses or anywhere else sheltered. If they have left a door open and then locked it without checking it is possible your lost pet could be stuck inside.

Stay in the same place
Or if you have to go, leave a piece of clothing with your scent on it.

Don't shout your dog's name anxiously

He or she won't recognize the tone of your voice. Call as you would normally

Search in a triangular area
Dogs tend to go from A to B to C when they're lost

Keep the car motor running



Dogs recognize the sound of a familiar engine

Alert the canine community immediately
Dog wardens, vets, dog walkers, rescue centres, police a dog counts as lost property, and fellow owners via an organization like www.doglost.co.uk

Launch a poster blitz
Include your mobile phone number and specify a reward. Put posters at garages, ATM's, supermarkets, stations, postal sorting offices, in ice cream vans, at scrapyards and in rough pubs (where dogs get traded). Expect the odd crank call.

Stay local
Dog thieves rarely take an animal more than 30 miles from the scene of the crime

Take the long-term view
Dogs are sometimes returned after one, or even two years.

Don't run at your dog if you see him
Approach cautiously, or you'll frighten him off, especially if he's been gone a while

If possible, bring another dog along with you on your search. Dogs are social creatures and will be attracted to a friendly dog companion with you. If you do see your dog DO NOT CHASE THEM. They may become frightened or playful and run away. Instead, coax the dog toward you with toys, your dog companion, and by talking in a soft voice the way you would a young child.




More Tips on finding your lost dog or puppy:

1. Search your neighborhood on foot and by car. Dogs are crepuscular - they're most active at dawn and dusk, so focus on those times. Cover the paths where you normally walk your dog, and surrounding areas. Draw a circle on a map with your home at the center. Extend the radius out a few miles and cover the area in a methodical way.

2. Grab a leash, and take along some strong smelling food your dog loves. If he has a favorite toy, bring it along. Toys that make noise e.g., squeak or jingle are best. Whether walking or driving, go slowly and call your dog's name in a happy voice. If you are in a vehicle, have someone else drive. Assuming your dog is familiar with the phrase, "Wanna go for a ride?" call his name and the invitation - if he's trained to come, call his name and then the recall cue. Use the happy tone you'd normally use.

3. If you have another dog, or have access to another dog yours is friends with, take that dog along on searches.

4. Show a current photo to everyone you encounter.

5. If your dog isn't people friendly, you can't ask people to hold on to him, instead, give out the number of your local animal control agency, and your cell number, and ask people to call immediately if they spot your dog. Even if your dog is people-friendly, tell people that if they do see him, not to chase him. Ask that they turn their body to the side, and even crouch down with body turned sideways and clap gently, using a happy voice to lure your dog over. If they have a yard or other containment area, ask them to coax your dog inside and then call you. Let people know if your dog is dog-friendly, in case they have a dog of their own. And don't forget to mention the reward; positive reinforcement works for people, too.

6. Be sure all of your neighbors are aware of the situation. If you feel it's safe, knock on doors in your area, explain the situation, and leave people with a photo flyer.

7. Place a large sign on your front lawn with a photo of your dog. It should say that he's lost and give a number to call if someone has found him.

8. Post "Lost" flyers all around your neighborhood, using the map you marked up as a guide. Don't crowd the flyer with text, as it should be easily readable by passing drivers. Include a photo, preferably in color. The word "REWARD" should appear in large letters. It's also a good idea to add the phrase, "Needs medication." This not only imparts a sense of urgency, but dissuades those who might believe in a "Finders, Keepers" policy from "adopting" your dog. It's best to have small tear-off tags with your phone number at the bottom of the flyer, so that people take a tag rather than tearing down the entire flyer.

9. Place a Lost Dog ad in your local papers, and be sure to search daily through the Found ads. Do the same for Craig's List online, and any other classifieds sites local to your area.

10. Give flyers to your local postal workers and delivery drivers for services like UPS and FedEx. They are the ones who are all over your neighborhood daily, so they have the best chance of spotting your dog. Give flyers to kids who are playing outdoors, and make sure they know there's a reward. Alert local pet sitters, since they too are out and about in the community, and normally have other dogs with them that might attract your dog. Give flyers to anyone you can think of who spends time around your neighborhood: bus drivers, taxi drivers, highway workers, utility workers, etc. Tell local trainers too, in case someone decides to keep your dog and then get him trained. The more people you tell, the better the chances that someone will call you when your dog is spotted.

11. Post flyers at your local veterinary offices, emergency clinics, shelters, humane societies, groomers, pet supply stores, kennels, any other dog-related businesses, and dog parks. Post too at laundromats, supermarkets, community bulletin boards, and anywhere else that will allow it.

12. Spread the virtual word! Share your information on social media such as Twitter and Facebook. Be sure to include a photo.

13. Let local rescue groups know, too. If your dog is purebred, someone might try to turn him in to the breed rescue group rather than dropping him off at a shelter. Even if he's a mixed breed, make sure local rescue groups have your phone number and a description/photo of your dog.

14. Search your local shelter, and those in surrounding areas, daily. Someone may have picked your dog up on their way to another area and dropped him at a different shelter. Don't just call you must show up in person. Often the office staff who answer the phones will not know what dogs are in the actual facility. Also, your dog might have been marked down as the wrong breed upon intake. Be sure to search not only all of the runs - they may have misidentified the gender it happens, but the medical area as well. If your dog was hit by a car or otherwise injured, that's where he will be, and yet most shelter officials won't tell you to look there. Find out the number of days your shelter holds lost dogs before they become available for adoption (or worse, euthanized), and be sure that you or someone shows up within that time frame on an ongoing basis.

15. While at the shelter, search through the "found" books or postings. Someone might have your dog at home but doesn't want to turn him in.

16. Search all of the places you can think of that a dog might find attractive. Local dog parks, fields that contain rabbits or squirrels, woods, garbage dumps, and dumpsters behind restaurants are all good bets. When you search on foot, be sure to keep an eye on bushes and under cars, as those are common hiding places for a frightened dog, or one who is napping.

17. There are companies that will, for a fee, search for your dog by generating flyers and employing a voluminous contact list. This can be especially helpful if you work full time or are otherwise too busy to conduct a full-on search effort on your own.

18. If you spot your dog on the street, be sure to follow the body language suggested in point #5. You could even try running the other way, encouraging him in a happy voice to chase you, until you get the chance to put a leash on him.

19. Think positive. Visualize your dog home safe and sound. Most importantly, don't give up! I know of cases where a dog was lost, and someone took him in for a few months and then gave the dog up to a shelter. Keep looking. Organization, hope, and perseverance are the most valuable tools you have. Here's to your dog getting home safe and sound.

20.After a week, start checking sites as if you were in the market to adopt a dog just like yours. Many rescue groups use Petfinder.org. You may find your own dog up for adoption. Be vigilant. It may be weeks before you find your lost dog. Also, don't fall prey to schemes. If someone calls saying he found your dog, do not pay a reward until you have him back. Offers to ship your pet to you after you send money are likely a scam. Have someone with you when meeting a stranger to retrieve your dog.

21. Go a little farther by vehicle and start spreading the word to your local mailmen, UPS and Fed Ex drivers, joggers, runners, bikers and anyone else walking around the search areas.

22. Continue using strong ad messages to spread and expand your search.

23. Expand the radius of your search area by several miles - call shelters even beyond the area you think your dog could have reached.

24. Visit the animal shelters and rescue leagues to look for your pet every other day. Don't expect volunteers to recognize one brown dog from another. If the dog is a dirty, matted mess that lost weight, you may have trouble identifying your own pet. Ask if there is a quarantine area or an area where injured animals are kept in case your dog is separated from those shown to the public.

25. Check the "found" ads in they newspaper each day your pet is lost.

26.Keep your dog's favorite squeaky toy. Or, use another noise-making device with you while searching, for example, a bag of food, that makes your dog come running. Dogs can hear sounds from very far away and may come if they hear a comforting sound.

27. The dog owner(s) should take an article of clothing that has been worn at least all day, the longer the better, so the lost dog can pick up the scent.

28.Bring the article of clothing to the location where the dog was last seen and leave it there. Also, if the dog has a crate & familiar toy, you can bring those too, unless location undesirable for crate. You might also want to leave a note requesting item(s) not to be moved.

29.Let's think about the size and fitness of your pet. Let's draw a circle around the spot you lost your pet. Half a mile? A mile? Five miles? You decide.Let's think about the places in that circle where you pet would likely go to find company, comfort and food. A school yard? A house where your pet sometimes gets treats or has a buddy it looks at during walks? A stranger's open car door?

30.FOR MORE TIPS on HOW TO FOUND YOUR LOST DOG
by ALAN GROSBARD






Among all these things, the most important thing to do is to understand your dog's temperament. We say this because different personality in dog will determine what they will do and where they will go.



By understanding all these the probability of finding your missing dog will greatly increase.

Elderly, Disabled, and Small Dogs: these dogs are often recovered quickly as they usually end up within a few blocks from where they have escape. The best target search area will be within a mile radius of where it was lost, e.g. home.

Once your dog is home, practice prevention: Keep a correctly fitted collar with ID tags on at all times, have him microchipped (keep the info updated), and keep a current photo on hand.

Friendly and Purebred Dogs: In broad, dogs who wagged their tails and readily go up to strangers for attention and purebred or rare breed dogs will be "rescued" much quicker than mixed breed dogs that often goes unnoticed. This is likely because, people see the value in the dog. They either want the dog to keep for themselves or they assume that such valuable dog must be lost and they'll stop to help to find its owner.

Aggressive Dogs, Panicked Dogs, and Skittish/Shy Dogs: These dogs will be more difficult to capture and are at risk of traveling while they are lost. Dogs that fall under category will often run blindly and can travel for miles before intervention. When they eventually slow down they will often seek refuges in areas such as woody forest, creeks, cemeteries and etc. where they can avoid all human contact.



List of nessesary dog searching equipment


Take a flashlight
Be sure to take a flashlight with you on your search to look under bushes, behind cars, etc. Even if you start searching during the day you might find yourself searching for hours into the night and will wish you had a way to see through the shadows and darkness to locate your dog.




Take a picture of your dog with you
Be sure you take a picture of your dog with you so that you can show the people who you encounter what your dog looks like. If you don't have a picture of your dog, bring a picture of a dog that looks similar to yours. You can find dog breed pictures online and print them out to take with you. Many people don't know the difference between a Golden Retriever and a Labrador Retriever so it can be a great tool to have a picture and simply ask, "Have you seen a dog that looks like this?" If you don't have a picture of your dog or a similar dog to take with you, try to describe your dog to people as what you guess they would think his breed is. If your dog is not a well-known breed it is actually best to simply describe him as looking like the most common breed of dog that is similar. Your Whippet, for example, should be described as looking like a Greyhound. Don't get caught up in the pride you have for your dog's pure-bred originality and focus on what information you need to reveal to get your dog returned to you.




Take a whistle
Take something with you on your search that makes noise. A whistle could get your dog's attention if he's in the woods, or behind a house. If you own a dog training clicker or a squeaky toy these could also be helpful tools to create a unique sound that could bring your dog out of hiding.

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LIST of
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HOW TO MAKE A MISSING DOG
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HOW TO DEAL WITH DOG "FINDERS"
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Take "found" calls with a grain of salt. At this devastating time, you are vulnerable and there are unethical people who may try to take advantage.

If someone calls and describes your dog from your ad and says, "I've got your dog here," respond, "Does she have a black mark inside her right leg?" and they say, "She sure does" and your dog doesn't, hang up quickly. You don't want to deal with such people. If they say, "No, she doesn't" and you think it could be your dog, simply say you made a mistake, that's another dog you have seen before.

If someone tries to blackmail you into a higher reward before returning your dog, try to make sure they have the right dog, or any dog at all and ask the person to meet you in a public place. Then go with another person to meet them. Don't be taken advantage of. If it is your dog, offer a token reward.

Recent scams include people calling for out-of-state airfare for your lost dog. They might say your dog has been stolen and dumped far from home and they found him 200 miles (320 km) away. Don't fall for it.

If someone does genuinely find your dog, and you've offered a reward, pay it. You made a decision to pay a reward, so it's already gone. You have your dog back. Do not stand in judgment of whether or not the person was honest in their dealings.

PREVENT DOG LOSS
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Make sure the tag is easily visible and well written. If it's not well visible, older people who have found your dear Spot won't recognize the name, and think the name is Zot. If there's a spelling mistake, again, your number might not be recognized, your address might not be right either, and the dog's name will go from Stripe to Strip. It can be very confusing.

Get your dog a collar, with a tag on it that has his name and your address. If you aren't comfortable putting your address on the tag, you can get a phone number put on it instead.



Never never never leave your dog unattended. Even if your backyard has a dog-proof fence, watch him when he is outside doing his business or playing out in the yard. Some dogs do crazy things while they are alone, like trying to jump over or dig under the fence.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS put your dog on a leash while in public, in the park, or on the beach. If you live in a small neighborhood and don't have room on a fence, keep your dog on a leash while taking him outside to do his business. Or, if he isn't comfortable going while on a leash, watch him closely.

WHERE LOST DOGS GO?
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Before you organize your search you should understand the places where lost dogs go, and where they can end up. This section will open your mind to the possible locations where you might find your lost dog. Read this section first to get an understanding of the possible places that your dog might be found, and then use the instructions in "The search plan" section to organize a search of these locations.

Down the street and miles away
In most lost dog cases dogs are found just down the street, or within a mile of their home. On occasion they do travel for many miles before being picked up, and can travel for hours before deciding to take a rest. Even if your dog only made it a few blocks away on foot, the person who found him might be on his way home from work and take the dog a few miles farther from your neighborhood on his way home. Never assume that "that's too far" for your dog to have gone...but focus your search in the immediate areas first before branching out.

Families' Homes
- Most lost dogs in suburban areas start out in a finder's home. Someone sees the dog strolling down the street and brings him inside to give him water and make sure he's safe. Many finders decide against taking the dog to an organization, shelter, or vet and instead keep the dog in their possession to give the dog special attention in trying to find his owner. Most finders give themselves a day or two to find the dog's owner before they consider taking it to an organization. This is why the first few days should be concentrated on poster distribution. Hit the neighborhood hard with posters the first few days. In depth information on "Lost Dog" posters is included later in this guide.

The Vet
Some people who find lost dogs immediately think of the local vet as a good place to take a lost dog. Usually these are the finders who do not own dogs themselves and really don't know what to do to care for someone else's dog until the owners are located. Of course, the vet and its employees are a safe place for your lost dog to be taken care of, but this is not always the location where lost dog owners think their dog might have ended up after setting himself free. You should call your local vets to inquire about your lost dog and to give them the information on your dog. If your dog is not there now, he may be dropped off there in a few days and it's very important to know that the local vets are aware that you are looking for your lost family member.

SPCA / Humane Society / Animal Control
In a perfect world all lost dogs would end up at one of the local SPCA, Humane Society, or Animal Control locations AND these organizations would be funded well enough that they could keep lost dogs indefinitely until their owners are located. Unfortunately, neither of these conditions is existent in the real world, so your dog may not end up at one of these designated organizations; and if he does he may not stay there for long. If your dog ends up at an SPCA, Humane Society, or Animal Control you have a good chance of being reunited with your dog as long as you visit the locations to look for your dog. The SPCA's have the systems in place to take dogs in, enter their information into their computer systems, and allow receptionists and other workers to do quick searches for found dogs that have been logged in the system. But, nothing is fool-proof. Although all of these organizations will work with you over the phone, you must visit these locations in person to really see if your dog is at their location. You should visit these locations every three days for the first two weeks, then once a week for the weeks following. It's imperative that you bring along posters with a picture of your dog and leave one or more copies with the receptionist, as well as posting one on their bulletin board.

Shelters
Dog shelters, and especially breed-specific shelters, are one of the least obvious places for owners to look for their lost dogs, but these locations should not be ignored. Although someone who found a dog might search the Internet for ideas as to where to take Boxer they found, lost dog owners often don't know to search for local Boxer rescue / shelter groups when searching for their lost dog. Dog shelters and rescue groups can be hard to locate due to their low-profile business appearance, but if you are looking for your lost dog you should take the extra time to find and contact these organizations. Even if the local rescue group doesn't have your dog you should trust that they are talking to other owners of dogs, and are online reading breed specific web forums. This gives you many extra eyes keeping a look out for your lost dog. As with the vets and organizations you should make sure to leave some posters with shelters and rescue groups.

REASONS WHY DOGS LEAVE
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The three most common reasons why dogs become separated from their families are opportunistic journey, wanderlust, and blind panic.

Opportunistic journey is when a gate or door is accidentally left open. While some dogs will remain in their yards or at their homes, most simply can't refuse the temptation to explore when presented the opportunity. Although these dogs might not actively attempt to leave, their noses just lead them on a journey that can take them blocks or even miles from home.

Wanderlust is a common problem in intact male dogs of any breed as well as certain breeds like hounds. These dogs will actively attempt to escape by climbing, digging, or wiggling to escape their yards. They will also bolt out a door or pull to get away from their handler if the opportunity presents itself. Wanderlust is responsible for the displacement of many dogs and a major contributing factor to the stray populations in our shelters.

Blind panic is a situation in which the "flight" instinct from the hardwired "fight or flight" response to stimuli kicks in and a dog runs in what we call a blind panic. This can happen for three reasons: xenophobic skittish temperament, loud noises - thunder, gunfire or traumatic incident, involved in car accident, explosion, etc. These dogs are the most difficult to catch since they will travel far, travel fast, and avoid human contact, even with their own family members!



There are human behaviors, animal behaviors, and other factors that influence the distance that a lost dog will travel. When giving recovery advice to someone who has lost a dog, be sure to consider the following:




Dog owners often behave in ways that actually inhibit their chances of recovering their lost dogs. Some develop a "wait and see" approach (believing their dog will return home like Lassie) and by the time they start actively looking, the vital first few hours to locate the dog or witnesses who saw the dog are gone. Others develop "tunnel vision" and fail to find their dog because they focus on wrong theories. They assume their dog was "stolen and sold to research" when in fact their dog might have been rescued and put up for adoption through a local adoption event. They experience "grief avoidance" and quickly give up their search effort because they really believe they will never see their dog again. They feel helpless and alone, often discouraged by others who rebuke them and tell them "it was just a dog" and "you'll never find your dog."



In addition, the level of human animal bond (HAB) will influence the recovery efforts. People with a strong HAB will go to extremes to find their lost dog. They will accomplish the "impossible" task of visiting all shelters, posting flyers, and contacting rescue groups while maintaining a full-time job and other family commitments. On the other hand, people with a weak HAB will quickly become discouraged, assume they will never see their dog again, and will stop searching.




Factors That Influence Distances Traveled
There are six major factors that influence the distances that a lost dog will travel: Temperament, Circumstances, Weather, Terrain, Appearance, and Population Density.



There are three primary behavioral categories of lost dogs: Gregarious Dogs, Aloof Dogs, and Xenophobic Dogs.

Gregarious Dogs: Wiggly butt, friendly dogs are more inclined to go directly up to the first person who calls them. Depending on the terrain and population density where the dog was lost, these dogs will generally be found fairly close to home or will be picked up by someone close to the escape point. Gregarious dogs are often "adopted" by individuals (not shelter or rescue workers) who find them.

Aloof Dogs: Dogs with aloof temperaments are wary of strangers and will initially avoid human contact. They will be inclined to accept human contact only after they have overcome fear issues and become hungry enough. While these dogs can travel a great distance, aloof dogs eventually can be enticed with food and patience, typically by experienced rescuers who know how to approach and capture a wary dog. These dogs are often recovered by rescue group volunteers, and their wariness can be easily misinterpreted as "abused." In addition, these dogs are often not recovered for weeks or months after their escape, giving them the physical appearance - thinness, injuries, stickers, ticks, etc. that they are homeless, abused, and unloved.

Xenophobic (Fearful) Dogs: Xenophobia means "fear or hatred of things strange or foreign." Dogs with xenophobic temperaments, due to genetics and/or puppyhood experiences, are more inclined to travel farther and are at a higher risk of being hit by cars. Due to their cowering, fearful behavior, people assume these dogs were "abused," and even if the dog has ID tags, they will refuse to contact the previous owner. Some of these panic-stricken dogs will even run from their owners! It may be necessary to use other dogs to get close enough to capture them or to use baited dog traps.



Circumstances Surrounding the Disappearance
A dog that digs out from a yard to explore a scent will tend to travel a short distance before it is found meandering and doubling back as it explores a scent. On the other hand, a dog that bolts in panic due to fireworks or thunder will take off at a blind run and can run for several miles.

Weather: A dog that escapes on a beautiful spring day may travel farther than one that escapes in a snowstorm. Extreme weather conditions (snow, hail, rain, sweltering heat) will decrease the distances that lost dogs travel.

Terrain: A dog that escapes in a residential area will not travel as far as a dog that escapes in a mountainous area. Fences that create barriers will influence a dog's travel since a dog will tend to take the "path of least resistance" when traveling. Cactus, heavy brush, and steep cliffs can be barriers that influence whether a dog continues on a path or changes directions.



Appearance of the Dog: What a dog looks like can influence how quickly it will be picked up by a rescuer. In general, most people are less inclined to pull over and attempt to grab a loose Pit Bull they perceive as being "aggressive" than they would a "friendly" Labrador Retriever. Also, size matters as people are more inclined to pick up small dogs because they look vulnerable and are easier to transport and house than large dogs. In addition, people are more likely to attempt to rescue a purebred dog that they perceive to have value than a mixed breed dog. When average motorists see a mixed breed dog trotting down the sidewalk, their impression is often that the dog belongs in the neighborhood or that it is a homeless stray. But when those same people see a Boston Terrier, they are inclined to believe that, because it is a "valuable purebred dog," it must be a lost pet.

Population Density: A dog that escapes in Manhattan will travel a shorter distance than will a dog that escapes in the Rockies or in rural farmland. When dogs escape into areas with a high number of people, their chances of being found close to the escape point are increased. But in areas with an extremely low number of people, dogs tend to travel farther and their chances of being found close to the escape point are decreased. A dog that escapes in the middle of the night will travel farther before being seen than a dog that escapes during rush hour traffic.

IF YOU FOUND A STRAY DOG
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Leash the dog but be careful !
If the dog appears friendly and comes up for a pet get a collar and leash on the dog. You cannot control a dog just by having a hand on the leash.

Be very careful! Some dogs can become frightened from efforts to control and may bite or attempt escape when collaring and leashing.

Keep the dog calm using a soft, reassuring voice.

Treats can help.

Be VERY careful if the dog appears injured or very fearful. If in doubt call a professional animal control expert.


Contain the dog
If you have a kennel or dog crate use it to contain the dog. If you do not have a space or kennel restrain the dog to a post or tree with a chew proof line. Many dogs that are found have already escaped from a kennel or tie out line.

Give the dog immediate access to water. Dogs can go days without food but not so without water.

Containing the dog in a house or shed can result in damage from chewing or elimination. Choose wisely, not all dogs are house broken.


If you have the dog for several days
you will have to:

Feed, water and give some exercise opportunity to the dog. Start feeding slowly to insure there are no adverse reactions to the food.


If the dog is injured:
Handle the dog very carefully! Even a well trained and highly socialized dog can become aggressive when injured.

Take the dog to a vet if possible. If not, call animal control or call a local vet who might be willing to make a house call.

Make sure that the vet knows that this is not your dog and that you are performing a humanitarian service.

You may have to make a decision about paying for services.


Determine if there is contact information
Dog tags with contact information

Rabies tags

Collars with ID tags

Tattoos - Usually on the inside of the ears or on the belly side

Chips - You can only determine this from having a Vet scan the animal with a reader.
Use Internet resources. Some of these are listed on our HOW TO FIND

If no immediate contact / ID information is found:
Ask neighbors

Call the local shelters to check for lost listings.

Call animal control to check for lost listings.

Call local police and report the found dog.

Call the local humane society to check for lost listings.



Check for posters by driving around in your area.

Post "found dog" posters. Do not fully describe the dog so that you can get a more detailed description from the person that might call you. You don't want to give the dog to the wrong person. Do not put your address or name on the posters, just your phone contact information. This is to protect your privacy and avoid being scammed.

fPost a "Found Dog" post in the local newspaper and check for "Lost Dog" listings. These are often free.

TATTOO ON DOGS
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Tattoo InformationThis list was compiled from the Internet to help people trying to trace a tattoo on a found dog. There may be additional registries that are not listed. If your registry is not on the list, or we need to update or correct your information, please contact LostDogSearch@aol.com



National Dog Registry (NDR) New York
24 hr hotline 1-800-637-3647 (1-800-NDR-DOGS)

Tattoo-A-Pet is a national registry.
PH # 1-800-828-8667 (1-800-TATTOOS); PH # 1-800-828-8007

American Kennel Club (AKC) Companion Animal Recovery (CAR)
PH # 1-800-252-7894
An AKC tattoo normally has two letters, then 6 digits and a two digit trailer, * newer ones have 8 digits. e.g., HM 010101-01 or HM 010101/01 or HM 01010101.

National Greyhound Association
(NGA) is the registry for racing greyhounds.
PH # 1-913-263-4660.
Racing greyhounds are always identified by tattoos in both ears.

United Kennel Club
PH # 1-616-343-9020
2 letters with 6 digits

National Animal ID center
PH # 1-800-647-6761
N prefix with digits

Hunting Dog ID Association
PH # 513-891-0600
"HD" prefix with a number up to 5 digits

German Shepherds
See www.nwk9.com

The Ohlone humane Society (California based Registration)
PH # 510-797-9449

U.S. Found Maryland
PH # 1-410-557-7332

ID Pet
PH # 1-800-243-9147 or 1-203-327-3157.
Numbers normally begin with an "X" (then SS number)

Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)
PH # 1-416-675-5511.

Dogs bred in Canada and registered with the Canadian Kennel Club are generally tattooed in 1 ear or the flank. The tattoo is made up of three parts, the most significant part is the initial, three character letter-number sequence. This identifies the breeder. An example of a CKC number: 7MR 1 C.

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