Trainers who do not use force and choose humane, reward-based methods for their dogs get the same arguments thrown at them over and over again. I think in most cases the people hurling the arguments are not apt to change their minds. I mean no insult by that. Science tells us more and more that changing one's ideas about something, even in the face of overwhelming evidence, is very difficult and practically goes against our very wiring. Positive reinforcement-based training is subject to a lot of misunderstanding and misrepresentation.



Many people genuinely don't understand how it works, and others seem to deliberately misrepresent it. The dog's supposed desire for domination offers a convenient excuse to psychologically and physically abuse the dog under the guise of training. These misconceptions prompt procedures in which people are recommended to physically dominate and/or intimidate the dog, rather than building the dog's confidence and teaching him that there is no need to feel threatened by people and therefore, no reason for biting them. For the general dog-owning public, the very concept of physical domination is as ridiculous as it is dangerous. Certainly, an experienced trainer might be able to flip the majority of dogs into supine restraint, but few novice dog owners would be silly enough to try, and no child and few adults could possibly succeed.



How can a dog possibly view a four year-old child as an alpha animal, and how can a child possibly physically dominate any dog. The very concept is preposterous pop-psychology. Sillier yet, is when adult humans try to impersonate dogs during training - trying to reprimand dogs with open-gape pins, scruff shakes and "alpha rollovers". Some of these misunderstandings and misrepresentations are very "sticky." Misunderstandings, straw men, myths-call them what you will, but they are out there and they are potent. Every one of these points is focused on punishment or aversive stimuli. Clearly that is a sticking point in people's understanding of positive reinforcement-based training. The claims also fit neatly into two categories. The first four misrepresent positive reinforcement-based training. They paint it in a ridiculous light and imply it is impossible or ineffective. The last two blur the lines between positive reinforcement-based training and training that involves deliberate use of aversives. In rhetorical terms, the first four are straw man arguments, and the latter two use the tu quoque fallacy in addition to the continuum fallacy.

Maximizing Positive Reinforcement
If you are still worried about a negative reinforcement component with training with food, it's easy to address. To minimize and possibly eliminate the presence of negative reinforcement effects, how about this: don't train your dog on an empty stomach. Meaning the dog's stomach, silly! But it'd probably be good if you have eaten something too. You want to be at your best when training! Use appropriate sized pieces of good treats and you can be fairly confident that you are training with virtually entirely positive reinforcement - if the behavior increases, of course. If calories are a concern, cut down the next meal. Also, recent research indicates that dogs, just like people, probably learn better when their stomachs are not empty. Makes me feel good that I have almost always given my dogs some of their meal ahead of time to take the edge off before training.


No Fun for Dogs?
No barking, urine marking, stealing food, jumping-up and mounting? But all these are signs of a perfectly normal, healthy dog. Excessive barking may be controlled by feeding the dog only from chewtoys and by teaching the dog to "Woof" and "Shush" on cue. In-house scent marking is the signal for some basic housetraining. Stealing is indicative of an ill-trained dog living with an owner who continues to leave tempting items within reach. Dogs jump-up as a natural greeting and friendly appeasement gesture that has been unintentionally reinforced since puppyhood. Train your dog to "Sit" when greeting people and maybe to "Give a Hug" on request, when and if appropriate. Not coming when called has absolutely nothing to do with dominance, rather it simply advertises insufficient training by an owner who continues to let the dog off-leash in distracting and potentially dangerous settings.



Mounting is the result of a misdirected sexual urgem but the dog is trying to "love us to death" not kill us. The dog wants to mount something and a cat, a cushion, or a great aunt's left leg, are sometimes the best options at hand. I wouldn't dream of allowing my dog to mount an unfamiliar dog, let alone a person. Mounting other dogs may lead to dog-dog fighting and owner-owner aggression. But the point is, we manage to control our equally vibrant, human sexual impulses in public and dogs can do likewise, if so educated. Simply request your dog to sit or lie down. Check out amorous Dolce, who is about to mount another dog until his owner requests him to sit. End of problem.

MYTH: "Purely Positive" is a LIE!
"Purely positive," or sometimes, "all positive," are terms most often used as epithets by force trainers to refer to trainers who avoid force and aversives. They are used as a straw men in arguments. A Straw Man is a misrepresentation of an opponent's argument that is usually laughably extreme and easy to disprove. That's its purpose. The person who creates the Straw Man can knock it down and play like they have disproved their opponent's actual argument. People generally construct Straw Men when they have a dearth of logical arguments. Once in a while they have an honest misunderstanding. If that happens, the person who built the Straw Man can be gently presented with one's real point of view and a discussion of its true merits and faults may ensue. But sometimes Straw Men are constructed by people who just want to win at all costs, the truth be damned, or are used consciously by people who know that what they are saying is untrue. When someone does that, it's generally the case that they are not going to listen to your true point of view or play by the rules of polite conduct in an argument. The reason that bringing up "purely positive" is a Straw Man is that virtually no one is claiming to be a 100% positive reinforcement trainer.

MYTH: The Kids...
Newsflash: it is not really such a bad idea at all to use external reinforcement for tasks that are not intrinsically meaningful or rewarding to children. There is, of course, a whole discipline of positive reinforcement training for humans using markers. Many people find the idea of using food treats, stickers, or tokens when teaching children shocking, even repellent. Like dogs, they are supposed to eagerly apply themselves to tasks that have no intrinsic value to them just because we want them to. In the world of cultural fog described by Susan Friedman, people tend to react to punishment as a perhaps unfortunate but inevitable part of bringing up children, but run screaming at the idea someone deliberately might use reinforcement to affect a child's behavior. Oh, the horror!

MYTH: The Dogs...
There is one particular difference between teaching tasks to children and behaviors to dogs. The important tasks we teach to children will eventually become socially or intrinsically reinforced. These reinforcers are often not even recognized as such by the critics of teaching with reinforcement. A smile or nod from a parent. A "thanks" from a stranger. Physical comfort. Control over one's environment. Encouragement from a teacher. Passing a test. Performing well in a job interview. We are social animals and sensitive to social success and acceptance. Folks who quote the "cookie" remark above generally do not recognize the reinforcement that is naturally available and going on all the time for us social humans. That includes negative reinforcement, of course. A child may choose to make his bed to get his parents to stop nagging him about it..



But the bigger point is that many things that are chores for children are naturally positively reinforcing when they get older. Dogs do not "grow up" to get the social reinforcement or the joy of fitting into our culture and society. However, Skinner's plan to switch to non-contrived reinforcers works for them, too. Teaching a dog to walk on a loose lead using positive reinforcement may take a lot of treats or even play at first, but a skilled teacher can show the dog that learning to walk nicely on a leash expands their world. The dogs can transition to the life rewards of going places, exploring, and sniffing new things. Doesn't that sound familiar? The un-doggy behaviors we want from our dogs would not initially have natural reinforcement without our intervention. Most would be acquired not at all. So we arrange reinforcement for them. But in many cases, just like for kids, some natural reinforcement will fall into place as well as our dogs enjoy their lives with us.

MYTH: Positive reinforcement-based training is permissive
What would one do with a cookie if the dog did something "bad"? What I didn't know was that positive reinforcement-based trainers not only reinforce desired behaviors, but also have several humane techniques for interfering with the reinforcement for unwanted behaviors so that they don't pay off for the animal. These include antecedent arrangement, reinforcement of alternative behaviors, and in some cases negative punishment. Positive reinforcement-based training, especially when applied to behavior problems, takes careful thought and planning. It is precise, deliberate, and the opposite of let's all hang out here in happy fairy rainbow land.

MYTH: Positive reinforcement-based trainers just ignore bad behavior
The one also brings a very bad image to mind: a doting pet owner letting her pet jump on grandma, countersurf, and go through the trash. But the truth is quite different. What we actually do about unwanted behavior is to

1) prevent it from happening in the first place,
2) teach the dog something acceptable to do instead and occasionally,
3) punish it using negative punishment.

We know that ignoring reinforced behaviors doesn't make them go away. But to make things a little more complicated, there are two situations where "ignoring" is used in training. One is when training new behaviors or associating a verbal cue with a new behavior. In these cases, if the dog makes an error, nothing happens. We do not treat. But in these situations we are not dealing with some habitual, harmful behavior that is getting reinforced some other way. It's just a wrong guess in a guessing game. The other situation where ignoring might be used as a part of a training approach is when the animal's behavior is being reinforced with attention. But even in that situation, we would not use ignoring by itself. I now have a whole post about the issues with ignoring: Does Ignoring Bad Behavior Really Work?

MYTH: Positive reinforcement trainers believe that nothing unpleasant should happen in the dog's life, ever, and they try to protect their dogs from all aversives
First, this is impossible. Mild to moderate aversive stimuli are around us at all times, and we and our animals perform loads of behaviors to avoid or lessen them. Perhaps the dog is too hot. That's aversive. Perhaps there is a fly buzzing around her head. That's aversive. Perhaps the dog has to get a shot at the vet. That's aversive! The truth is that we avoid training with aversives, even with mild ones. If a thunder-phobic dog escapes into the house when it storms, this is called natural or automatic negative reinforcement. The dog is reinforced for running into the house by gaining distance from the thunder noise. The thunder is an unavoidable aversive in life. But I would never put a loud noise into a training session and use a dog's fear of it to get a certain behavior out of her. And as for major aversives we do prepare the dog for them as best we can to make them less so. That's the opposite of using their aversive qualities.

MYTH: Positive reinforcement-based trainers will do things like let their dog run out in traffic so as to avoid jerking on his collar, or avoid any medical procedure that might "hurt"
This one is almost always a straw man. Probably, the people saying it and acting like they believe it really don't think we would stand by in an emergency and watch our dogs get hurt. In an emergency we will body block or grab or tackle or apply leash pressure to a dog who is about to do something dangerous, just like any other normal human being who cares about his or her dog. Yes, this is using an aversive. But it is not part of a teaching scenario. Different behaviors are expected and needed in difficult situations. For example, a friend might ask me to use a needle to remove a sliver that she can't reach. I would do this if asked, even if it might mean hurting her. But because I am willing to do that, it does not follow that I am fine with training her a new job skill by poking her with a needle every time she makes an error.

MYTH: Positive reinforcement-based trainers use punishment but just don't know it or just don't admit it
This is silly. We are generally the ones who are trying our best to leave mythology behind and learn the science behind good training. But again, the claim can come from someone who just doesn't understand what it is we are doing; someone who figures there just has to be punishment in there somewhere! Sometimes there is. And those of us who use negative punishment know when we are using it! But a common variant of this claim is, "When you train, you don't always give the dog the treat. You are withholding the reward and that's punishment, har har har." Actually it is not. As long as there is no consequence to the dog's wrong guess it is not punishment. It is extinction at work. Extinction by itself is no picnic for the dog either, but in general we don't use it by itself. Usually another behavior or multiple other behaviors are being reinforced, and we help the animal make the transition to performing one of those instead. We also know and freely admit that certain tools fall easily into aversive use. It's no news that a plain old collar can be used to hurt a dog. That's why when we start using any gear on a dog, we use counterconditioning to help the dog build pleasant associations, and we teach the dog behaviors so as to minimize the chance of discomfort. This is the opposite of using the aversive properties of a piece of gear.

MYTH: Positive reinforcement-based training is just as stressful on dogs as balanced or aversive-based training
Training with positive reinforcement can surely be stressful. But the stressors generally have to do with lack of skill - errors by the trainer, or an added aversive situation that wasn't planned. It is not sensible to argue that a method that consists of giving the dog food or playing with her when she performs a desirable behavior is as aversive as a method that depends on applying discomfort, pain, or intimidation.

MYTH: Misconceptions of the Mythical Alpha Dog
A number of dog training texts cite pilo-erection, prolonged barking and growling, snarling and snapping, food protection, and otherwise threatening people as examples of aggression and alpha-status. Usually though, these behaviors are indicative of insecurity and may be easily prevented or resolved by comprehensive socialization, desensitization and oodles of classical conditioning. Dogs feel the need to threaten people because they themselves feel threatened by people. In terms of dog-dog interactions, threatening, growling and fighting are characteristic of middle-ranking male dogs that lack confidence of their social standing. Top dogs seldom growl or threaten, they don't need to. Underdogs seldom growl or threaten, they would be silly to. In our study of dog social hierarchies, the two top male dogs were pretty cool customers, they seldom threatened and growled and hardly ever fought. Instead they were perfectly happy to share a bone with other dogs, whereas the middle-ranking males protected the bone with extreme machismo - a noisy and embarrassing advertisement of their lack of confidence.



Puppy biting is normal, natural and necessary. In fact, it is the puppy that doesn't mouth and bite that augurs ill for the future, since he has never had the opportunity to develop bite inhibition. Of course puppy biting has to be eliminated before adolescence, but via a specific 4 step process, whereby the pup first learns to inhibit the force of his biting before he is taught to stop biting now modified to gentle mouthing altogether. Similarly, if played correctly, games of tag, tug o' war and play-fighting all serve to maintain the dog's bite inhibition, to teach specific rules and to practice control at times when the dog is excited. If the owner does not play by the rules and is out of control, the dog will become out of control and overly excited. Since many people, especially men and children are going to play these games with the dog anyway, we should teach them how to play with the dog properly in a controlled fashion so that the games become both beneficial and enjoyable.

MYTH: Slot Machine is working
Many dog trainers suggest using a Jackpot method of training where once in a while the dog gets a pay out of treats. If the slot machine never gives even a small reward, would you keep playing?

MYTH: You are bribing the dog - simply, no
Studies are showing that the smell of food actually changes a dog's brain chemistry. The feel good hormone, serotonin, is produced when food is presented to the dog. By teaching a dog to do an action with a treat, they consistently get to feel good and want to do it even when food is not present because the action now produces the same feeling. It is the same as a slot machine, winning produces that feel good feeling, making you want to pull that level again and again because every time you do it you get a little kick of feeling good.

MYTH: Purely Positive training methods have no corrections
This seems to be a difficult point for many to understand mainly because it changes between trainers. Some trainers actually use NO methods of correction. Some trainers don't know that they are using correction methods. Finally some trainers simply mean that they are going to use methods that people will not see as harsh or abusive. I fall directly into the latter category. Take a look at the four categories of operant conditioning for more information on different types of reinforcement and punishment.

MYTH: Puppies cannot be trained before 6 months
No way, from day one you should be training! Where this comes from is that if you use compulsion methods, which rely heavily on leash corrections, you need them to be bigger or you may hurt or kill them. The only real difference between training a puppy and an older dog is puppies will have, what i affectionally refer to as, Puppy Brain. Puppies may only have a minute attention span, that means you cannot sit with them until they get a new command, you need to split it up into multiple training sessions. A wonderful example is Dug from the Pixar movie Up, he can be focused on minute and be focused on the squirrel the next.

MYTH: Positive training only works for happy, normal dogs and not large, tough or aggressive dog
No way! A simple way of thinking of this is would you use compulsion methods to train a Polar Bear? Never! Winnipeg Zoo uses positive training with all their polar bears. Elephants, killer whales and tigers are all now trained with positive methods. Dog training seems to be have left behind while the rest of the animal trainers realized the possibilities with positive training. Using compulsion methods on a scared or aggressive dog can likely lead to worst behaviours. I have personally seen a simple leash correction turn into a bite scenario in a split second.

MYTH: My dog generally irritating behaviour because he is dominant
No. Dogs are not out to dominate you, that is not their life goal. If you have not built a strong relationship with your dog, you will see many problem behaviours express themselves. Relationship activities, some times called leadership training, has nothing to do with dominating your dog into submission. The easiest way is to actively participate in obedience training on a daily basis. You are teaching your dog that you are to be listened to because you are the leader thought positive methods because your dog trusts and respects you. What dogs WILL do is take a leadership role if a leader has not positively presented themselves within the family - dogs don't enjoy this role many of them start exhibiting stress related behaviours.

MYTH: Never play tug with your dog as it will create aggression
This does not cause aggression. It causes a highly excited state where a dog will put his teeth on you. You need to teach your dog that teeth belong only on the rope during this game. The only time i would not suggest playing tug would be with a young duck dog, we want a soft mouth and this could create a hard mouth. However if you have a fully trained duck dog, go for it! Older dogs are wonderful at know the difference between play and work.

MYTH: If I start training with treats I will have to always use treats
Not if you properly phase out the treats for real world rewards like "good dog" or a pet on the head. When phased out properly I only suggest jackpot treating once in a blue moon. Generally if i am training a new behaviour I will start with a known behaviour and treat for obedience.

MYTH: Begging at the table is caused by using people food rewards
Dogs learn to beg because someone has feed them from the table, even just once. If you leave your treat bag on the table while training, you are training the same begging behaviour into your dog. This is very similar to begging for food in the kitchen.

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Andre Yeu

Clicker training is an exciting complement to training and a useful tool for instilling good behaviors. It can be used alongside traditional positive reinforcement training methods. It can also be used to help shape or train complicated behaviors by helping guide your dog in the right direction. However, there are some misconceptions about how to use a clicker when training. Read on to learn more about this great tool, and some of the common myths surrounding it! Clicker training may seem complicated. It may even seem unneeded as owners can just use a praise word in place of a click. However, for those wanting to teach beyond the basics, a clicker is a great way to teach more complex behaviors without having to learn a new system of training. It is also a great way to keep your dog focused. It helps him learn he is doing the right thing with consistency.


What is Clicker Training?
Clicker training is the use of a clicker to denote when your dog or cat, or even chicken! - has done something correctly. The clicker takes the place of a praise word such as "good boy". It also denotes that a treat is about to come to reward the correct behavior. Clickers are great as they are consistent, easily recognized sounds that make training a breeze. Clicker training can also be used for "shaping" complex behaviors. This is done by encouraging your dog to do something similar to what you want, and then clicking when he is close to the right behavior for a few steps. You then encourage him to try more and click again when he is closer, sort of like a game of Hot and Cold. While it sounds complicated, seeing it in practice makes it easy to understand. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation about clicker training and food-based training. While many of our new students are excited and eager to finally have a clicker training school that isn't a two hour drive away from Downtown Toronto, some come to us a bit unsure or a bit on the fence, so if you are on the fence, this article is for you.

MYTH: The Click Gives a Command
Clickers are used to let your dog know they have completed a command with success, but they are not what tells your dog to do it. You can't click to have your dog sit, stay, lay down, etc. Instead, you will give your dog a command as usual, and once they have completed it, click and then give a treat. Clickers let your dog anticipate the upcoming reward.

MYTH: I have to carry a clicker with me at all times or else the dog won't perform
Truth: Clickers are only used in the learning phase of a new behavior. After a behavior is nearly fluent, it is no longer needed.

MYTH: Clickers Can Be Used to Stop a Behavior
Clickers don't give commands, or rewards, and they can't stop a behavior either. However, shaping new behaviors through clicker training can help deter and stop bad behaviors by shaping them into wanted ones. For example, a barking dog may be trained to bark on command instead, and thus bark less when a reward isn't involved.

MYTH: The Click is Used in Place of a Treat
Clickers are also NOT the reward for the behavior, but the signal that a reward is coming. When starting out, owners and trainers will prime the clicker, by simply clicking it and giving a treat immediately after. This helps your dog associate the click with the upcoming reward, so when you use it for training he will understand he was successful.

MYTH: If I train with food, I will need to have food with me at all times, forever, or else the dog won't perform
Lure-reward food-based training will create food dependency. Lure-reward training is not the same as clicker training, even though some lure-reward trainers use clickers incorrectly. Clicker trainers do not use food as a lure, or if they do, they use them extremely sparingly. If you train properly, you will not need to show your dog a treat first before it performs, nor will you necessarily have to feed your dog every time it performs. In fact, the opposite is true, if you continue to feed your dog for every correct response for too long, the dog won't perform reliably. Clicker training actually requires you adopt what we call a variable schedule of reinforcement - in plain English, phasing out food.

MYTH: Dogs get fat being trained with food
Food rewards are prepared so small that they represent a relatively small percentage of total food intake per week. Also, in low-distraction environments or for easy behaviors, a dog's regular meal can be used for training. I have never met a clicker trained dog that was overweight - most are pretty svelte since they often compete in dog sports as their training progresses.

MYTH: If I train with food, the dog will beg for food
Feeding your dog at the dinner table teaches them to beg at the dinner table. Giving food out by hand for no reason will teach a dog to beg for food. Training with food teaches the dog that food is only given in exchange for work performed, and only when we request the work. Well trained dogs actually never beg for food because the circumstances in which they can earn food is so black and white, they understand when it's not available and when it's available and that is on our terms.

MYTH: Clicker Trainers are "New Age-y" and "Soft" on their dogs
False!!! The best clicker trainers are extremely hard on their dogs. We are hard on the criteria we require our dogs to perform to in order to earn reinforcement. We are stingy on keeping access to rewards and reinforcement contingent on performing behaviors. Since nobody wants to carry around food forever, myself included, I use everything else that the dog wants in life to reinforce training. If my dogs don't go into their crate and lay down, they don't eat. If they don't sit and stay while I open the door, the door never opens. If they don't keep the leash loose while we are walking towards the dog park, we never get to the dog park. What is true though is we will never use physical punishment in training because it is unnecessary - you can train reliable behaviors and proof them against distractions without having to inflict pain.

MYTH: The dog will hear clicks from other students in class and get confused
Dogs are experts at discriminating. Only clicks that come from the handler result in a food reward, so dogs quickly learn to ignore clicks that come from other directions.

MYTH: Clicker training is a fad and it will be gone soon
Clicker training comes from the work of B.F. Skinner and one of the earliest examples of clicker training was his graduate students, Marian and Keller Breland, clicker training pigeons to assist in aerial bombing in World War II. In the 1960s, Karen Pryor brought clicker training to dolphin training, and today it is now used to train practically every species of animal known to man. If it is good enough for the military and good enough for Sea World, isn't it good enough for your family pet?

HOW TO TRAIN THE DOG
TO NOT TO PEE
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Following these simple tips will show you how to stop your dog peeing in the house and help you discover what the underlying cause might be. There can be many reasons that your dog or puppy urinates inside your home, whatever that may be peeing inside is a big No No, and something you will want to put a stop to immediately.



When you bring a new puppy home it is inevitable there may be a few accidents, but with an older dog there is usually an underlying issue and we need to understand what this might be in order to be able to solve the problem. Rescue dogs can suffer from problems if they haven't been properly house-trained in their previous homes or have been fearful and suffered from stress while in Kennels. Older dogs like humans find it difficult to control their bladders for long periods as they enter their twilight years and one of the more common causes for adult dogs who won't stop peeing in the house are behavioural issues.


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Very often people say "My dog is peeing in the house for no reason" - There is always a reason and more often than not that reason is the owner. Housebreaking a puppy or re-training an adult dog takes patience, time and a watchful eye.

How to Stop Your Dog Peeing in the House

Crating
Dogs don't like to go the toilet in their personal space Creating a comfortable secure environment for them during alone time or through the night can reduce accidents. Make sure you get the correct size crate for your dog putting a Chihuahua in a crate for a Great Dane will not only give him somewhere to sleep but quite a large toilet area as well.

Make Alone Time Fun
Dogs left alone for long periods can suffer from separation anxiety which can result in them urinating either through nervousness or inability to hold it in for long periods of time. Puppies should never be left alone for long periods and if you have an older dog try to make alone time less stressful. Leave them puzzles or hide treats, even leaving the radio or television on can help them feel more secure.

Sprays
There are numerous commercial sprays on the market that can stop a dog urinating in a particular area they contain different chemicals or natural compounds such as cayenne pepper that dogs dislike and will avoid. There are also sprays that you can buy that you use on the place you want your dog to pee that actually smell of urine in order to encourage him to go in the correct place. You can also make your own homemade repellents which work just as well and are much cheaper.

White Vinegar
Canines can't stand the smell of acetic acid so will avoid areas sprayed with a solution of White Vinegar. Dilute with equal parts water and spray over the affected areas. Not only will it keep fido away but will also clean and neutralise any areas he has already used as a toilet.

Rubbing Alcohol
To use its correct name, Isopropyl alcohol has a powerful scent that is extremely disagreeable to dogs. Dilute the mixture with an equal amount of water and spray carpets weekly or after cleaning. This solution also has anti-bacterial properties and will disinfect the area thoroughly.

Lemon Juice
Mix freshly squeezed lemon juice with water and spray onto carpets. A more pleasant smell for humans it will remove any lingering odours while keeping your dog at bay.

Have a Neighbour or Dog Walker Pop In
If you need to be out of the home for longer periods of time it can be a good idea to get a neighbour to pop in so your pooch can have regular potty breaks or if funds allow perhaps hire a dog walker. A well-exercised dog is less likely to pee in the house and after a long walk will settle down happily instead of fretting.

Never Punish
It can be frustrating to have a dog that pees in the home but it is important to never shout or punish the dog by hitting it. This will only make him fearful and nervous. If you haven't seen him do the deed he will have no idea what he's done wrong and if you catch him in the act it will only make him fearful of relieving himself in-front of you in future.

Day Care
If you have to work all day every day then you should reconsider getting a puppy, but if you have an older dog that gets on well with others why not consider day-care. He will have fun while you go to work, socialising and playing with others of his kind and the opportunity for plenty of toilet breaks.

Vigilance
Whether you are house-training a puppy or an older dog you need to be vigilant, keep them where you can see them at all times and always give them the opportunity to go to the toilet when waking up from a nap, or after food or drink. If your four-legged friend needs a midnight toilet break set the alarm. It might seem like a chore initially but it shouldn't last long and will be worth the effort.

Rewards
As with all dogs the best way to get them to do what you want them too is by rewarding them either by lavishing them with praise, giving them their favourite toy or usually the one that works best of all, treats! You will soon come to know what your dog responds too best so use it to your advantage when he pees where you want him to.

Keeping Calm
Puppies don't have the muscular control of older dogs and many pee from either excitement or nervousness, although not really a house-training problem and something they usually grow out of it can be embarrassing when they pee all over a guest's shoes. This can be avoided by teaching your puppy to sit and ignoring them until they become calm and relaxed when you enter a room and encouraging any visitors to do the same.

Take Time Off
It is impossible to house-train any dog be it a puppy or adult if you are not there, even if you only work part-time you need to take time off to do the job properly and consistently. It won't take long but it really is vital to prevent your pet from peeing in the house.

Check With the Vet
Although puppies pee and sometimes a rescue dog that has spent time in kennels may not be house-trained it is unusual for an adult dog to start relieving themselves indoors without an underlying reason. Older dogs especially, can develop many conditions that can increase the need to go or lose control of their bladder muscles. If you haven't had any problems previously and now your older dog is peeing indoors, it is a good idea to check with your vet to rule out anything serious.

Socialization
One of the saddest reasons for a dog peeing indoors is fearfulness. Dogs that have not experienced the sounds, smells and sights of the world at large when young can develop phobias that stop them feeling comfortable when going to the loo outside. A loud noise, fireworks, thunder can all be terrifying to a dog. Their nervousness keeps them constantly distracted instead of dealing with the business at hand. making it more likely for them to pee inside the home. It is important to introduce to lots of experiences whilst they are young to build confidence.

Don't Cover the Smell Eliminate it
Dog's urine omits a powerful enzyme that tells them to "Please Pee Here!" therefore it is vital to not just clean up any accidents that may occur but also to eliminate the odour completely to stop your dog peeing on the carpet.

Introduce a Word
Many owners find that introducing a word associated with going to the toilet helps their dog with training to go potty outside. Our canine friends are usually eager to please and having a word such as "Busy" or "Pee pee" can help them understand what is required if re-enforced and used all the time until they get the hang of it.

Keep Them With You Outside Not Alone
Do not put your puppy outside and leave them there expecting them to do the business. Not only will you not know one way or the other if they have been, often they will be so involved in getting back to you and wondering where you have gone which can cause stress and they will concentrate on that rather than going to the toilet.

Avoid Exciting Games Until Business
While trying to housetrain any dog it is important you keep them from being distracted. Avoid playing with them until business is taken care of they will be much more interested in a game of tug or playing with a ball than going to the loo. Keep the games for afterwards when not only will they enjoy the playtime but see it as a reward.

Neutering
A common problem with male dogs and in particular small breeds is territory marking this can occur if there is more than one pet in the house, if you bring home a new baby or even if someone visits. New and strange smells will encourage a dog to mark his territory and can result in him cocking his leg on every piece of furniture in your home. So how can you stop a male dog from marking? You can try correcting with a firm no or short spray of water when you see him about to raise a leg or actually Neutering can lower the testosterone hopefully making your canine companion slightly less territorial.

Medication
There are many medical conditions that can contribute to dogs peeing in the house. Diabetes is a common one where the dog drinks so much he cannot hold it in like he used too. Older dogs can also suffer from Canine Cognitive Dysfunction, a similar condition to Alzheimer's in humans. This makes them confused and they may not even remember peeing at all. Older spayed bitches can sometimes leak urine while sleeping due to decreased hormone levels. Your vet can usually help in these cases by prescribing medication to help with the problem.

Shaker Bottle or Water Spray
Making your own Shaker Bottle or water spray can often help you stop dogs from frequent peeing in the home. As soon as you notice your pooch doing the pee dance which inevitably involves sniffing, circling and finally squatting give the bottle a firm shake or spray him with the water. This will be enough to stop him from peeing enabling you to take him outside to the correct area. When he relieves himself shower him with praise. This method can have quick results in stopping your puppy peeing everywhere, if used properly - Don't scare the dog the point is to distract him not make him fearful.

The Boss
Dominant dogs both male and female can assert their authority as the pack leader by peeing around the house this is a common trait found in smaller breeds who have been spoiled and allowed to get away with other undesirable behaviours. So how do you stop small dogs peeing in the house? Don't worry this problem can be easily solved by reasserting your authority and showing them who is boss. Don't baby them, use firm training methods, make them sit and wait to be fed re-enforcing the fact that it is you who is the pack leader and not them.

Soaked Paper
A common method especially used for puppies who pee indoors is to encourage them initially to pee on newspaper you can use the urine soaked newspaper to show them where to pee outdoors as the powerful smell will encourage them to go in the same place. Hopefully the paper will only be needed for a short time and they will soon get the hang of where the toilet is.

Limit Drinks Before Bed
Although it is advisable to have a constant supply of clean fresh water available for your dog at all times for dog's who are having problems going through the night without an accident it might be wise to limit their intake on an evening say after 8.00pm. Common sense is needed here though if they have been on a late night walk, enjoyed a strenuous game or the weather is hot don't let them go thirsty.

Never Rub His Nose in It
Back in the day this was lauded as the correct way to house-train a puppy, how wrong we were! It is c??ruel and confusing. The puppy has no idea what he has done to displease you he lives in the moment and at that moment he is learning that you-the person he loves most in the world can be unpredictable and someone to be feared. This will only encourage him to hide from you when peeing in future, making it much more difficult to train him.

Keep on Leash When Visiting
If you have a puppy who is not yet house-trained or an older dog who pees in the house it is always a good idea to keep them on the leash while visiting friends that way you are in control of your pooch at all times which can prevent any embarrassment or not being invited around again.

Ask the Breeder
When you bring your new puppy home a responsible breeder will give you lots of information about what he has been feeding the pup, whether it has had its first vaccinations and any health checks. Therefore, it seems reasonable that you ask if the puppy has started his toilet training and if so is he used to puppy pads or newspaper. Carrying on with something your new best friend is familiar with will reduce the likelihood of accidents.

Paper Training
Many dog owners train their puppies on paper or puppy pads initially, this is especially useful if you don't have immediate access to an outdoor area, Perhaps if you live in an apartment, The best way to do this is to situate the paper or puppy pads near to the door, that way when you see your pup heading in that direction you know he needs the toilet.


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Gradually reduce the amount of papers until the little fella is fully trained and they are no longer required. This method can take a bit longer than going straight outside but with patience your puppy should soon learn that peeing in the house isn't acceptable.

Belly Bands
As a last resort, if your dog has an underlying medical issue that cannot be resolved by medication or suffers from incontinence you can purchase Dog Nappies or "Belly Bands" These bands wrap around the dog's belly and contain an absorbent pad for any leakage helping to keep your home free from any accidents. They should not however, be a lazy man's alternative to house- training. Teaching your dog there is no designated area for peeing and giving them carte blanche to go when and wherever they want is counter-productive and will only give you more work in the long run.

Belly Bands
It requires patience to stop a puppy peeing in the house and even more so to prevent an older dog from doing so. We have to remember it is not their fault, they are not on a mission to annoy us or make our lives difficult. Understanding the reason for your dog peeing in the house is the key to solving the problem. Try one or more of these tips on how to stop your dog peeing in the house and you will find that your four-legged friend will soon be peeing where he is supposed to-Outside!

DOG MEMORY TRAINING
TRICKS & TECHNIQUES
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A GOOD dog trainer has a healthy respect for a dog's powers of recall. Considering dog's the superior nose, the massive mental focus on smell and the connection with memory, it stands to reason that a dog will remember smells pretty well. This is why a dog wants to smell your hands and shoes: to learn where you have been and what you have been doing. We, humans think in words and pictures. Imagine going somewhere new and interesting and keeping your eyes closed, then trying to describe it. I believe a dog thinks in smells and, to a lesser extent, textures and patterns of movement. A walk is about gathering smells. A dog's life, its interaction with the world, is all about smells. I try to apply this to dog training.



I have spoken often about the importance of patience, repetition and routines when training a dog. I believe smell can and should be part of the mix. As I work with a dog, I try to fill its head with smells, especially new smells. I put emphasis on overlaying my smell with new scents in the dog's memory. That's my focus on day one: a simple sequence of events, combined with new smells.



Usually the sequence ends at home in familiar surroundings where the dog earns a few treats by performing obedience sequences. The next time the dog meets me, my smell triggers memories of what we did the last time we met, of the things and places we smelled together. When I repeat the routine from the previous session it starts to become a pattern. Even very young dogs remember things we did months later. I think smell plays a big part in this. I think sleep is important too. In my experience, new smells will send a dog to sleep better than physical exercise.



I operate on the assumption that a dog processes its experiences in its sleep and whereas our human experiences are catalogued primarily in visual images, a dog's are mostly about smell. If you have the required patience, you can try this. Take your dog for a walk somewhere new and watch the places it smells with the most concentration, then go back another day and see if it is drawn to the same spots directly by memory, as opposed to discovering them by accident as it did the first time. If a dog is to remember something well it needs to tag it with a smell or more likely an olfactory tapestry at which we can only guess. The more distinctive the olfactory information, the better the memory of the event.

DOG POTTY TRAINING
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When to Begin House Training Puppy
Experts recommend that you begin house training your puppy when he is between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. At that point, he has enough control of his bladder and bowel movements to learn to hold it. If your puppy is older than 12 weeks when you bring him home and he's been eliminating in a cage (and possibly eating his waste), house training may take longer. You will have to reshape the dog's behavior with encouragement and reward. Potty training a dog can be anyplace from effortless to extremely difficult, based on him, your household and your living. Numerous keepers become fortunate and notwithstanding the blunders they inadvertently create, they are with a potty trained dog. However, some holders require help from an instructor or behavior therapist.



Assuring your home is without pee spots and smells is something you must do before starting your potty training strategy. Buy black light and an animal scent cleaner from your nearby animal shop. Switch off the lights and completely examine your house, rugs and furnishings once it is dim. The black light will show all aged spots therefore you can efficiently wash and eliminate them. There are numerous helpful maintenance items available.



Buy an excellent cage when you do not already have one that is sufficient for your dog to stand and lay. In a peaceful yet not remote portion of your house, place the cage. Create and observe an administration plan round the clock of potty breaks. Considering you do not desire your puppy to get a mishap so this is important. Your plan should add food, game, training and rest time and toilet breaks for the whole week plan.

Either you employ a dog walker or pet sitter that can assist you with that part of your potty training plan when you cannot be back throughout the break. This will be important for achievements. Maintain a day-to-day log on your dog's feeding plan and toilet behaviors. Observe as to when he pees and defecates. Mention precise time your dog consumes and any goodies provided every day. Usually, your record will assist you find how much time after feeding he wants to utilize the toilet. When necessary, you can utilize these facts to modify your plan.



Your dog's day will incorporate eating, resting, gaming, teaching and toilet breaks. Throughout all these durations, he is in its cage or connected to you. Absolutely, in the potty training duration, he must be monitored. Observe for indications of having to visit the toilet once he is tethered to you. Rapidly bring him away to its specified toilet spot when you see he is sniffing the surface, trolling in circles or appearing uneasy. Get your dog from its cage, on a chain, and bring him to its specified toilet spot at the planned toilet occasions. Maintain him on its chain however allow him discover while you stay in a place. First, disregard him. He will ultimately visit the toilet considering he is not acquiring awareness from you and there will be restricted issues of attention to discover in the limited region described by the chain.



Reward your dog when he has completed. Render him care and goodies. Have a small occasion with him. This allows him understand that his conduct is great and merits reward. You must make a circumstance where he desires to visit the toilet in that specific spot. Just upon your dog has been to the toilet should it be let from the chain to run or directed for his lengthy stroll. Eventually, this guarantees that he will understand that the quicker he finishes his toilet conduct the faster he receives his incentive of goodies, run or stroll. When you return him in to its cage, constantly workout or enjoy with or teach him.



Reveal to your dog you are a trustworthy and good chief. Don't penalize him for blunders. His mishaps are your mishaps. Merely have his awareness with a deafening clap and instantly bring him away to their toilet spot when you see him showing indications of requiring the toilet while inside and you are sluggish having your dog outside.




Do's and Don'ts in Potty Training Your Puppy
Punishing your puppy for having an accident is a definite no-no. It teaches your puppy to fear you.

If you catch your puppy in the act, clap loudly so he knows he's done something unacceptable. Then take him outside by calling him or taking him gently by the collar. When he's finished, praise him or give him a small treat.

If you found the evidence but didn't see the act, don't react angrily by yelling or rubbing his nose in it. Puppies aren't intellectually capable of connecting your anger with their accident.

Staying outside longer with puppy may help to curb accidents. He may need the extra time to explore.

Clean up accidents with an enzymatic cleanser rather than an ammonia-based cleaner to minimize odors that might attract the puppy back to the same spot.

DOG CRATE TRAINING
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A crate can be a good idea for house training your puppy, at least in the short term. It will allow you to keep an eye on him for signs he needs to go and teach him to hold it until you open the crate and let him outside.


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Here are a few guidelines for using a crate:
Make sure it is large enough for the puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down, but not big enough for him to use a corner as a bathroom.

If you are using the crate for more than two hours at a time, make sure puppy has fresh water, preferably in a dispenser you can attach to the crate.

If you can't be home during the house training period, make sure somebody else gives him a break in the middle of the day for the first 8 months.

Don't use a crate if puppy is eliminating in it. Eliminating in the crate could have several meanings: he may have brought bad habits from the shelter or pet store where he lived before; he may not be getting outside enough; the crate may be too big, or he may be too young to hold it in.



Do you recommend crate training adolescent dogs to some of your adopters? If you are going to recommend crate training for your dogs when they are adopted, crate train them while they are at the shelter. This approach is easier on the dog: the dog is not completely bonded to one person at the shelter and so experiences less separation distress when crated. Crate training at the shelter also helps the adopter who may be reluctant to use a crate or be unfamiliar with crate training. When the shelter has already crate trained the dog, the adopters will be more likely to use the crate, and the chances for a permanent, successful adoption are greatly increased.

The benefits of Dog Crate Training
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How to Crate Train Dog
REMEMBER: you cannot counsel or do this type of quick, easy crate training with dogs already in a home. This is NOT the advice to give to owners over the phone. Instead, this is advisable only for dogs in shelters. Note: NEVER crate train a dog with a choke-type collar on or with a leash attached to his collar.

GOAL: Train the dog to spend time comfortably and calmly in a crate.

1. Place soft blankets and toys or chewies in the crate.

2. Clip a small bucket of water in the crate.

3. Find natural, short opportunities to crate train: a one hour nap, a ten minute "chew on the bone stretch," a rest after a tiring exercise session, or an overnight all make good crate training opportunities.

4. Crate train only for the amount of time the dog can comfortably hold his bladder and bowels. The rule of thumb for puppies is to crate in hours for the age of the puppy in months plus one. For example, a four-month-old puppy can stay in a crate comfortably for at most five hours. No dog should ever be crated for more than nine hours at a stretch.

5. Always supervise dogs when they are first crate trained to ensure they are not panicking.

6. Never force a dog into a crate or lock a panicking dog in a crate.

7. Some dogs will not take readily to a crate and may panic or harm themselves trying to escape. For these dogs, detach the crate door, place comfortable bedding and a few treats in the back of the crate, and leave the doorless crate in the run with the dog.

8. Feed him in the crate for a few days to help him acclimate.


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DOG BACKPACK WEAR:
TRAINING MANUAL
TEACHING GUIDE
INSTRUCTIONS
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Bear in mind that dogs that will be wearing a backpack for the first time have the possibility of exhibiting reluctance. This is considered as a normal behavior because this is something new and outside of their comfort zone.
Do not force the dog to wear the backpack on the first attempt because this can lead to psychological trauma and stress !!!

Do not start hiking with your dog without any practice. Just like humans, dogs need to exsersize many and often, before they can reach highlands. Adding weight without gradual build-up can cause serious and sometimes unrecoverable injury to your dog. While hiking, also be sure to watch for signs of dehydration on your dog.



Many dog owners make the mistake of putting a dog backpack on their dog for very first time only minutes, before a hike, loading it up with stuff and then expecting the dog to be happy and comfortable. The more you practise with either dog back, the happier and stronger your dog probably will be on the hike. So practice makes ideal. The essential factor to remember when using a dog backpack for the first time is that your dog will most likely not want to wear it. This is natural. So, some patience is required here. Give your dog at least a couple of day of practice initial.


To get your dog used to a pack, start slowly.
First, let your dog examine the pack, and make this a really positive experience - lots of praise for sniffing and showing an interest in the pack. Do this a few times and always keep your tone positive when introducing him to the pack.



Before the pack goes on your dog's back, make sure he is already been on a decent walk. A calm, focused dog is much easier to fit properly. Ensuing that all the straps are tightened properly, lure your dog into moving with the pack on his back. Use some really tasty treats to get him moving, and your dog will begin to associate the pack with good things.



During this time, you want to assess your dog's comfort level. Nervous? Unsure? Ambivalent? Also watch as your dog moves about the house: does he have his normal range of motion? Are there straps hanging in the way of the legs? Are the saddlebags sitting far enough forward on the shoulders? While it's natural for dogs to feel strange wearing their backpack in the beginning, make sure you watch for signs of pain or discomfort.



Once you have checked the pack and made any adjustments for fit, put it away for the day. You want to keep these sessions short and sweet. The next time the pack comes out you can take the dog for a short, fun walk. Bring plenty of treats and make this a pack party! You want the pack to be associated with really good things, so your dog is happy to carry it.



As your dog gets used to the pack, begin to fill the saddlebags with bunched up grocery store bags. You want to use something lightweight that will give the dog a feeling for the potential bulk of the pack. If you take your dog down a narrow trail or through a crowded farmers market, you don't want the dog ramming the pack into people.



Over time, you can gradually increase the weight of items in the pack. Take care to always keep the pack balanced on your dog's back. Before each use, give the pack a good once-over, looking for any frays or tears in the materials.



Check that the buckles are clean and free of debris. Inspect your dog's body for areas where a pack might be rubbing or causing hair loss. If the pack is rubbing, adjust it, and if that does not fix the problem, get a different model.



Be ready for some extra attention. When people see your dog in a pack, you will be on the receiving end of comments, compliments and questions. If you and your dog are social butterflies, be prepared for many conversations about how cool it is that your dog is carrying some of the weight. And if your dog loves the attention, this helps to re-enforce that wearing a pack is a good thing!




On the first day...
Put the pack on your dog without the tightening the staps too much. They ought to be tight enough that your dog can not get it off and afree himself, but not as tight to bear the weight. It will certainly help to praise your dog for weaing it. Plenty of loving attention assists very much! Leave it on for a couple of hours and then take it off. So the doggy should become slowly used with the new back equipment.

Repeat it at the second day,
but put the little dog backpack on a little tighter this time. Keep the straps lose enough for three fingers, to slide under the straps effortlessly. Nevertheless, you need to have the ability to pull down on the pockets, just a little without the backpack sliding around too much.

The third day...
should be a repeat of the second day, except this time the dog backpack will have some weight on it. Try a coulple of hal filled water bottles or some kibble in a zip-locked bag.

The fourth day
should be the same as the third day, but this day will probably be a full weight day. The dog backpack should be left on for about a hour, during this time. This would be to get your dog accustomed to the weight. Now your dog ought to be prepared for a little hile with a full pack on his back. If you believe that the fifth day is essential, of course fee free to leave the full pack on longer.



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Step 1: Select a backpack that's right for your dog
When you are deciding on a backpack for your dog, take into account what you are using it for. Just exercise around town? For long hikes when camping? This will help you decide on the design of the pack and what kind of capacity you need. However, even if you are just using a pack for burning extra calories on a walk, make sure it is of sound construction. Things like where the straps fit on your dog, how well you can adjust fit, and if there is padding under the clasps, will all factor in to how comfortable it is for your dog to wear their new pack.


Step 2: Introduce the pack and get a proper fit
It's important to start your dog off on the right foot with their backpack, because the last thing you want is for them to become scared of it or dread it. That means you'll want to have a pocket full of treats when you first introduce your dog to their new pack. Some dogs will accept the pack like it's no big deal and you will hardly need to spend any time conditioning them to wear it. But other dogs may be a little more skeptical or flat out nervous about this strange thing you are attaching to them, so it doesn't hurt to take your time and make it a great experience.


Step 3: Get your dog used to new balancing & space awareness
The first thing your dog is probably going to do is try and walk through a doorway and run into the door frame. In fact, they will probably run into a lot of stuff the first time they wear the pack. They have to get used to the new edges of their body. Keep the experience fun with lots of laughter and rewards just for walking around your home with the pack on. Then, head out for a walk with the pack empty. Give your dog plenty of opportunity to get used to wearing the pack, as well as having it put on and taken off, without any weight in it.


Step 4: Increasing weight and improving fitness
The next step is slowly increasing how much weight your dog carries and ramping up conditioning. Just as you wouldn't one day wake up and run with a 50-pound backpack, your dog shouldn't wake up and start running with a heavy pack either. Start with a small amount of weight, maybe 2-3% of your dog's body weight, and build up from there over the course of a few weeks to carrying as much as, but no more than about 20% of the dog's body weight.


Step 5: Hit the trail and have fun!
Once your dog is conditioned to carry a backpack filled with necessities, you're ready to hit the road! Or sidewalk, or park path, or trail as the case may be. Remember to watch your dog for signs that the backpack is not rubbing them in the wrong place, and that they aren't fatigued from the extra weight.



With a properly fitted pack with just enough weight for your dog, neither of these should be an issue. But if there are areas where the straps are rubbing away your dog's fur, or your dog lies down during your walks to rest, it's a sure sign that it's time for you to carry the pack the rest of the way home.

TEACH YOUR DOG
TO ENJOY THE CARRIER
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After a couple of exercise, the dog will suddenly learn to be carried in the backpack. It will be an exciting experience when other people see you carrying your dog at your back. Starting from you, all people will soon start using the dog backpack carrier.



At times, it becomes necessary to carry the puppies rather than leaving them walk around. Other times, dogs get confused when in a crowded area or they get hurt. All this can be solved by employing a dog backpack carrier. Carrying the dog at the back allows the hands to be free while the dog is protected.



Since the dog is strapped, one requires placing the puppy in the backpack strap it and positioning it in the carrier at the back. You can buy a carrier that has the color and size of your choice depending on your budget. They are water tight and stainless implying that they remain clean for a long time. The designer backpack can be employed in cars and some people expend them in flights.



One can also use a backpack carrier that can make their dog unique from the rest. The dog backpack carriers also assist small dogs from getting tired easily. This allows them to be with you anywhere you go. When using the carrier, you can ride around comfortably while the puppy enjoys the trip.



The carriers are effective in carrying old dogs. One also requires spending time with their old dogs. The backpack is light hence it does not feel heavy when carrying the dog inside. They can sit or stand for their solace. Other than dogs, the carriers can be employed to transport other small animals like rabbits, cats among others.



The dog carriers are easily found in the cyberspace and pet stores. There are a number of factors to be considered when selecting a pet carrier. Ensure the carrier has enough ventilation to keep air moving in. It should also have room for simple movements. Keep the pet safe all the time.

HOW TO TRAIN GUARD DOG
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A guard dog, or a watchdog, is trained to protect your property and your family. Contrary to what you might think, most guard dogs are not taught to attack. Rather, they are taught non-confrontational techniques, such as how to stand guard and how to use their bark to alert you of a stranger or potential danger on your property. Training your dog to be a guard dog will take some time and patience, but the result will be a dog that will not only protect you against a threat, but will also be comfortable and well behaved in non-threatening situations.



If you are getting a guard dog, it is imperative that you consider what kind of dog beforehand. Do not just get the toughest, nastiest breed you can find. Be sure to choose a dog that is easily trainable and family friendly as well. If you are merely looking for a burglar deterrent, size does not have to be a huge factor here, either. Barking is as effective with small dogs as with larger ones.

Start Young
As with all dog training, starting them off at a young age is the best way to ensure that the training will have maximum effectiveness. Training a canine is important regardless of their duties around your home. However, if you want your pup to play the role of a guard dog, you are going to want to make sure you have time to train them thoroughly, and we are not just talking about how to use the bathroom. Here is a link to a thorough breakdown of how to train a guard dog.

Educated Barking
A critical element with a good guard dog is training them to bark out a warning any time a stranger comes to the door. There are ways to train a dog to exercise educated barking, which involves both teaching the dog to bark at strangers as well as critically teaching them to stop barking on command.

Obedience is the Key
If you are looking for a guard dog that will attack on command, make sure you are serious. A true attack dog cannot make friends with anyone but their primary handler. If you do decide that this is the level of protection you are looking for, you are going to want to take care to teach them specific commands beyond simply how to defend your home and family. For example, make sure that they clearly understand and that they reliably know the command to back off and stop any aggressive behavior. Also, make sure to teach your dog to obey you over anyone else. If a burglar can control the dog using the same commands, your entire system will be compromised.



Teach obedience - often, positively and frequently. The most important step in training a guard dog is consistency. Ensure that you have enough time and patience to train your dog obedience properly and effectively Your dog should respond to your every command — both verbal and hand signals. Familiarize your dog with the perimeters of the area.



If you are training your dog to protect your house, walk your dog around the outer limits of your house to teach your dog the boundaries. Teach educated barking. Your dog must learn who to bark at. Encourage your dog to bark strangers who approach your house. Pet, praise or reward the dog when it barks at a stranger. Train your dog to stop barking at your command. If it does not stop barking when you say so, practice by having people come to the door. Do not reward the dog until it stops barking upon command.

Socialization
It is essential to ensure that you socialize your guard dog so that they know that every person they pass by in public, like on a walk through the park, is not a threat. Of course, the top of the list of people you want your dog comfortable with is your family, all of whom should spend plenty of time loving on the animal. It is also helpful to teach them to be indifferent to other animals so that they do not perceive cats, squirrels, or other dogs in the same light as a genuine intruder.

Let the World Know
If you have a dog specifically to guard your home and protect your family, do not make it a surprise attack scenario. Let the world know! That does not mean you have to drape "guard dog" warning signs on your property, though that certainly does not hurt. Little clues, like leaving a bowl and dish, leash, or dog toys out in plain sight, can send a message that you have a dog watching over your property.

Do Not Leave them with Others
If you have trained a dog to guard your home, it is essential that you do not leave them alone with visitors. Even if they know someone is okay to have around, they may read a motion or specific behavior as a threat and could go into guard dog mode without you around to stop them. In addition to guard dog training, use crate training to control your dog. That way if you have people over, you can send your dog to a safe place where they can relax away from the stress of company, and you won't have to keep a vigilant eye on them the whole time.

Do Not Rely on the Dog Alone
Remember, a guard dog is not invincible. If you are going to invest in a pup to protect your home, it is also important to back them up with things like a good security system and sturdy doors and windows. If you are thinking of using your dog as protection over your RV, too, here are some extra tips for locking down your camper as you travel, as well. Some dangerous situations can occur when traveling or camping. A guard dog can alert you to potential dangers like wild animals and other unwelcome intruders.

Make an Informed Decision
Whatever path you decide to take with a guard dog, whether you are looking for physical protection or more of a family-friendly option with a good set of lungs, make sure you go into the decision with your eyes wide open. From choosing a breed to training, obedience, and socialization, a fully informed owner is the number one key to finding success with a guard dog.


METHOD 1 - Preparing to Train Your Dog to Be a Guard Dog


1. Recognize the difference between a guard dog and an attack dog
A guard dog is trained to alert its owner of the presence of a stranger or intruder through barking or growling. Guard dogs are not typically trained to attack on command or to act overly aggressive towards a stranger. Therefore, guard dogs generally do not make very good attack dogs. Attack dogs are often used by police and law enforcement.

They are trained to attack on command and respond aggressively to potential threats or intruders. Most attack dogs are well trained and will not act in an aggressive way unless they are commanded to by their owner. Attack dogs that are not well trained, however, can attack without warning and pose a serious danger to humans and other animals. The average owner is unlikely to need an attack dog.


2. Determine if your dog's breed is a typical guard dog breed
Though most dogs can be trained to be guard dogs, certain dog breeds are known to make good guard dogs. For example, smaller breeds such as Chow Chows, pugs, and Shar Pei's have been known to be good guard dogs. Larger breeds, such as Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherd, and Akita also make excellent guard dogs. Certain breeds, such as German Shepherds and Doberman Pinschers, can be trained to be guard dogs as well as attack dogs. If you have a pure-bred dog that is not a typical guard dog breed, or if you have a mutt, it is still possible for you to train him to be an excellent guard dog. If he has the behavioral characteristics of a guard dog and is properly trained and socialized, then you could train him to guard and protect you.


3. Learn about the personality traits of an ideal guard dog
Contrary to popular belief, a good guard dog should not react out of fear or pure aggression. Generally, a good guard dog should be territorial and protective of his owner and his owner's property, yet remain obedient to his owner's commands. A good guard dog must be confident in himself and his surroundings. A confident dog is curious about a new person or a new area, and is not shy or timid around new people. Your dog may already have this trait inherently, but proper socialization can also instill confidence in a dog.

A good guard dog is also assertive. This does not necessarily mean that he is overly aggressive or pushy. Rather, it means that he is comfortable with putting himself in a position that will allow him to get what he wants. It also means that he will be confident in approaching a new situation or person, rather than backing away. Sociability is another important characteristic of a good guard dog. A well-socialized guard dog will be able to recognize and be wary of a stranger in his owner's presence, but will not attack or become overly aggressive towards that stranger.

Good guard dogs must also be easily trainable. Chow chows can make good guard dogs because they are naturally suspicious of strangers, but tend to be very independent and not easy to train. Loyal dogs make great guard dogs. The more loyal your dog is to you, the more likely he will want to defend and protect you. German shepherds are known to be a very loyal breed.


4. Socialize your dog as a puppy
Proper socialization is essential to training your dog to be a good guard dog. When your dog is well socialized, he will be comfortable in his normal environment. He will also be less fearful and more relaxed important characteristics of a good guard dog, but will still retain a healthy dose of suspicion of unfamiliar and potentially dangerous situations. The best time to socialize a puppy is when he is between three and twelve weeks of age.

Beyond twelve weeks of age, puppies become increasingly more cautious of new situations and therefore become much more difficult to socialize. During the socialization period, you should get your puppy comfortable with meeting new people and interacting in new environments. It can be a huge task to socialize your puppy, so it may be easier to break socialization into small parts and expose him to situations over time at his comfort level. Reward your puppy with plenty of positive reinforcement (e.g., petting, treats, extra play time) each time that he has a good socialization experience.

Puppy classes are an excellent way to socialize your puppy. Keep in mind that your puppy should be up to date on his vaccinations and deworming treatment to keep him healthy and free of disease during the entirety of the training program.If your dog is an adult and you have already trained and socialized him, then he should be well on his way to becoming a good guard dog.


5. Ensure your dog can follow basic obedience commands
Before you begin guard dog training, your dog should already be able to obey basic commands like "stay," "sit" and "down." Having these basic obedience skills will ensure your dog can build up to learning defensive techniques like alert barking and standing guard. You can teach these commands to your dog on your own. Alternatively, you can sign your dog up for an obedience training class.


METHOD 2 - Training Your Dog to Alert Bark



1. Choose a trigger word
To train your dog to alert you when a stranger is at the door or on your property, you first need to establish a trigger word to act as a command. You can use "bark" as a command. Some owners prefer using a word other than "bark" - so that the command is not so obvious to others around you. Once you choose your "bark" trigger word, say it with the same level of enthusiasm each time you give your dog this command. Use the same trigger word every time you command your dog to bark.


2. Practice the command
Most dogs are natural barkers and do not need a command to bark at the sound of someone approaching or a sudden noise. The key here is to get your dog to bark on command. To begin, tie your dog up on his leash to a kitchen table leg or on a spot on your fence in your backyard. Hold a treat out to your dog as you back away from him, and then move out of his field of vision. As soon as your dog makes a sound, like a whine or a bark, run back to him and praise him with "good bark" or "good - trigger word."

Give him his treat immediately. After repeating this several times, your dog should start to connect your praise of his bark with a reward. Once your dog gets comfortable with the bark command while in the same area or spot, move him to different areas in your yard and in your house. You should also test his response to the command when you are walking him or playing together in a public place.


3. Be firm and clear with the command
Consistency and practice are key to getting this command to stick. If you want to test his response during a walk, stop walking him and look him directly in the eye. Then, say an enthusiastic "bark" command. If he looks confused or hesitates at your command, hold out the treat and repeat the command. Ideally, your dog should bark only once when you give him the command. However, your dog may want to continue to barking once you have gotten him started. Do not reward him if he barks continuously. Wait for him to quiet down before giving him the command again.


4. Create a mock scenario
To challenge your dog's understanding of the "bark" command, keep your dog inside your home and step outside your front door. Once you are outside, ring the doorbell and give your dog the "bark" command. Reward him with a treat when he barks once at your command. Next, knock on the front door and give the "bark" command. Reward him with a treat if he responds correctly to your command.

If possible, run through this scenario in the evening when it is dark outside. You will likely want your dog to warn you of someone at the door at night, so it will be important for him to understand that he should respond to the "bark" command during day as well as at night. Practice the "bark" command in short intervals. After three to four repetitions, give your dog a break and let him do something else for about 45 minutes. After this break, practice the "bark" command several more times. The goal is to avoid overtraining so that your dog does not become bored or frustrated during his training sessions.


5. Ask a family member to test your dog's alert bark
Once your dog appears comfortable with the "bark" command with you, focus on getting him to bark at someone other than you. Have a family member step outside and knock or ring the bell. Stay inside and give your dog the bark command. Reward each bark with a treat. This will reinforce his protective instinct to bark at someone or something unfamiliar. Continue to practice the "bark" command with a family member, rewarding your dog each time he barks at the sound of the bell or a knock at the door. He should eventually start to associate the doorbell or a knock with a bark and bark once at the sound. Over time, you want to try to train your dog to bark at the sound of the doorbell or a knock at the door, rather than at your command.


METHOD 3 - Teaching Your Dog the "Quiet" Command


1. Command your dog to bark
Now that your dog has learned how to bark on cue, the next is to command him to stop barking. In fact, teaching your dog the "bark" command is considered to be a practical first step to teaching him to the "quiet" command. Being able to command your dog to bark and stop barking on cue will help him be a good guard dog. As before, reward him with a treat when he responds appropriately to your "bark" command.


2. Command your dog to stop barking
Ring your doorbell. When your dog starts barking in response to the ring, put a tasty treat in front of his nose. As soon as your dog stops barking to sniff the treat, say "thank you" or "hush." Immediately follow your verbal command with a treat. Do not yell or use a loud voice when you give your verbal command. Your loud voice may add to your dog feeling alarmed and may encourage him to bark even more. Do not use "shut up" or "no" as verbal commands to get your dog to be quiet, since they can have a negative connotation.


3. Alternate between the "bark" and "quiet" commands
Alternating between the two commands will allow you to have better control over your dog's barking, which is very important to training your dog to become a good guard dog. You can have fun with this by varying how many times you say "bark" before giving him the command to be quiet. Your dog will probably see this as a game, which could make the training session much more enjoyable for the both of you.


4. Encourage your dog to bark when a stranger arrives
Encourage your dog to bark if the doorbell rings, even if you know who is at the door. He may not know who is on the other side, so you want to encourage his protective instinct to bark and alert you of something unfamiliar to him. When you get to the door, give him the "quiet" command and immediately reward him with a treat when he stops barking. Do not encourage him to bark if you meet a friendly or neutral stranger when you take him outside for a walk.


5. Practice the "quiet" command repeatedly
As with all training activities, repetition is necessary to teach your dog to respond appropriately to your command every time that you give it. Practice this command in short intervals and reward him with a treat each time that he gets it right.


FULL ILLUSTRATED GUARD DOG TRAINING GUIDE
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HOW TO TRAIN GUARD DOG TO ACCEPT GUESTS

DEAF DOGS TRAINING:
HAND SYGNALS
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First of all, there are no "wrong" hand signs, you can use whatever you feel most comfortable with, as long as you are consistent. There are a few basic obedience signs, but not enough to truly communicate with your dog. The advantage to using these is that most people who have trained a dog will be able to give your dog basic commands.


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Some people use ASL (American Sign Language).



This can be an advantage because anyone who knows ASL will be able to talk to your dog. Some people use modified ASL, so that they can hold a leash in one hand and talk to the dog with the other. Some people make up all their signs, you will probably still want an ASL dictionary, as it can be a challenge to invent signs with nothing to go on. Most people end up using a combination - obedience signs, and then one handed ASL. Anything you choose is "right" for you and your dog. The examples and ASL suggestions given on this page are just that, examples. Feel free to use, or not anything given.


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Using signs instead of words
The major difference in training a dog with a hearing impairment versus training a "normal" dog is the fact that they will not be able to hear your commands. One of the best ways to combat this is to teach your dog to react to signs. American Sign Language is one of the easiest languages to learn and will greatly benefit you and your dog. It will give you a language that both you and your dog can learn in order to communicate properly.

No matter what technique you use to get your deaf dogs attention, the idea is the same - teach him as many signs as you can in order to effectively communicate what you want them to do, whether it be to sit, stay or roll over.



Just as dogs can learn many different words and phrases they will be able to learn many different signs and combinations of signs. This means that your deaf dog will have just as much means of communication with you as any other dog would!



DEAF DOG HAND SYGNALS
Dog hand signals is yet another great way to teach your dog commands. Since dogs understand gestures and body language better than spoken word, training a dog to pay attention to hand cues is not that hard. Plus it is especially helpful if you or your dog is deaf.


"Good dog!"
You can use the ASL word for "Good," or a "thumbs up" or anything else that feels comfortable to you. To teach it, sit with your dog and a handful or so of really tasty treats. Use your "good" sign, and give the dog a treat. Repeat this several (approximately 3 to 10) times. Then give your sign and see what happens. If she looks at you as if to say "well, where's my treat?", she understands! Give her the treat.


"No" is probably the most overused word in dog training.
It is better to tell the dog something that she can do, rather than just to yell "no" all the time. For instance, if your dog jumps on you when you get home, what does telling her "no" do? Well, she knows that you aren't happy when she jumps, but she doesn't know what to do instead. So she tries something else and gets another "no." This could go on for quite a while as she tries to figure out what the proper greeting behavior is (and your dog could get the idea that you don't like her very much). It is far easier on both of you, to tell her to "sit" and skip the "no" part altogether.

You need to tell the dog what is "right," and "constructive criticism" will get you there a lot quicker. So teaching no is a little less precise, since all that it really means is "stop." Most people end up teaching at least 2 versions of no, one for minor problems, and one for big problems. The first one is for "No, that's not what I want," and just means to cut it out, do something else. You can shake your head and close your eyes, cutting off eye contact, to reinforce your disapproval. The second no is more serious. "Stop" means you are in really big trouble, and should be accompanied by a very "mean" face and angry body language. This one should be used only after the first has failed, since if you overdo it, it won't be a "big deal"


Teaching a "Release" Word
Teaching a release word is also important. If you do not tell your dog that it's OK to move or do something else, he will have to decide on his own. Obviously, if you are teaching your dog to "stay," this is not a good thing, but it comes in handy at other times as well (such as when it is "OK" to go out the door). It is a fairly simple thing to teach. Whenever you finish practicing one thing, sign "OK" before going on to the next. When you end a training session, sign OK, and then put away the treats. "Leave It" is a way to tell your dog that he cannot have whatever it is he is looking at. To teach it, hold a treat in one hand, open palm (if you sign your release word with your right hand, hold the treat in your left, and visa versa). Sign "leave it", and when the dog tries to take the treat, close your hand and turn it over. Do not pull your hand away or raise it up high. The dog will probably nose or lick your hand, or maybe paw at it. When he gives up and turns away, even for a second, sign "OK" and let him have it (still don't move your hand either forward or back or lower). As you practice, your dog will realize that he cannot have the treat unless you tell him that he can. Eventually, you will be able to hold a treat right under his nose and he will not touch it. Once he knows that, you can sign "leave it" regarding other things as well (such as food on a coffee table). You will need to practice, starting slow (such as putting food on the floor, then on a table, and so on), but this behavior usually transfers well.


"Walk Nice"
Dogs are taught unintentionally to pull on the leash. Whenever they are taken for a walk, they pull, and their person follows along behind, so the dog think that is what a walk is. It is easier to teach a puppy with no bad habits how to walk nice, but an older dog can be taught too. Teaching your dog to walk nice on a leash is often easier to start training off leash first. Start with a handful of treats, and while out playing, reward your dog every time she walks next to you. As she starts to do it more often, introduce a sign. Once she seems to be doing well at that part, introduce walking on the leash. After she will walk nice in the back yard, try walking on the sidewalk. Dogs that have already learned to be very determined pullers can be controlled by using a head halter. There are several manufacturers, but all work basically the same way.

The principal is the same as a horse halter - when the dog pulls, her head is turned and her body must follow. A small person is able to walk a large strong dog using one of these. Your best bet is to find a trainer to help you learn how to fit and use them, as most dogs will object at first - much like they did when first introduced to a leash and collar. Some dogs will not adjust, and something else will need to be tried, but most will get used to it. The only real drawback is that a lot of people will think that your dog is wearing a muzzle. There are many other ways to teach a dog not to pull. Two of the most common are to stop moving whenever your dog pulls, eventually, she will come back to see why you are not moving, or to turn and go the other way when your dog pulls. Sometimes your best bet is to talk to a trainer for help, as some techniques really need to be demonstrated to be effective. Regardless, your dog can be taught to walk nicely, it just takes practice.



Dog Hand Signal for SIT: Teach your dog to SIT by using a quick flip motion of your hand from palm facing down to palm facing up. With your dog in front of you and a piece of kibble in your hand by your side, bring your arm up to a 45 degree angle, with your palm facing downward. Next flip your palm up and move your hand slightly over your dog's head. Because your dog is following your hand holding the kibble, his bottom will hit the floor. As soon as he sits also use the verbal command SIT and reward him with the kibble. Continue to practice using verbal cue and gesture for 3 times. On the fourth time do not say SIT, just use the hand signal only and your dog should comply. Alternate times you offer a treat reward so your dog learning to respond to the hand signal and not just to get the reward.


Dog Hand Signal for STAY : Teach your dog to STAY by raising your arm up straight and palm facing forward. Once your dog is in the SIT position, hold your palm in front of his face and say STAY and take one step back. If your dog does not move go back to him and give him a treat reward. Start again but this time take 2 steps back. If your dog still does not move, go back and reward him again. Now go 5 feet away and raise your arm up with your palm facing your dog and say STAY. Wait for a count of three and if your dog does not move, go to him and hand him his reward. Next time take a few steps away from your dog and give the hand signal only - walk a few more steps away and show the gesture once more. Wait for a count of 5 and if your dog remained in the Stay position, go back to him and say good stay and give him a well deserve treat.


Dog Hand Signal for COME : Teach your dog to COME by using a sweeping motion with your right arm going across your chest to your left shoulder. Have your dog in front of you and at least 3 feet away. Next, with your hand by your side, show your dog that you are holding a piece of kibble in between your index finger and thumb. Next sweep your arm across to your opposite shoulder and say COME, and at that exact moment take one step back. Once your dog comes towards your praise and reward him with the treat and begin again. Repeat the steps above for 3 more times. If your dog successfully complies, on the fourth time do not say COME. Just use the hand command and reward your dog when he complies.


Dog Hand Signal for DOWN : Teach your dog to lie DOWN by bringing your arm straight down, pointing to the floor. Have your dog sit in front of you. With a piece of kibble in your hand, slowly squat down while lowering your arm towards the floor. Say DOWN while passing the kibble in front of your dog's nose. One he goes DOWN praise and reward him. If your dog does not go DOWN, while you are in the squatting position, place the kibble up under your leg and as soon as your dog goes down to get it say DOWN and then reward. Continue the entire process from a sit to down position for 5 times. Be sure to use the down command and treat reward to mark the successful action. On the sixth attempt, do not use the verbal cue. Just motion your dog to the down position and treat when he complies.


Dog Hand Signal for HEEL : Teach your dog to HEEL or walk nicely next to you by using a lowered arm motion and a pat to your leg or hip. In an open area of a large room or outside, begin by slowly walking around with a treat in your hand and your arm lowered to your side. Lightly pat your hip or upper thigh and say HEEL. Your dog will follow you closely to get to the treat. This one will take some practice so plan on having lots of treats available. You can also teach this command on leash, too. After several successful heel positions have been achieved, step 2 feet away from your dog and tap your hip. Your dog will assume the heel position for his reward.


SEND DOG somewhere with this sygnal
This is great for teaching a deaf dog if you want him to go somewhere, i.e. a kennel or mat, or to fetch something. You can also use it for "sending" the dog if you are working on agility.


Thumb Up!
Just like for people, you can use this sign to mean "good," or "yes." Since they can't hear a clicker, this can be a great way to "mark" when your dog does something right.


Okay Sign
This is another sign you can use to as a replacement for "good" or "yes." Remember to also have positive facial expressions that help your dog understand you are happy.


Finger Pointing Down
This is the most common sign for telling a dog to "lie down." Like the one for "sit," it's natural to do and easy to remember, which is important!


Hand Flat Out
You can use this symbol for "off," or to teach your dog a "stop" or "freeze" cue. Just remember you can't use it for both, so decide in the beginning and stay with that decision. You will really confuse your dog if you try to switch the meaning later.


Time Out Symbol
Although not commonly used in dog training, you could use it for "leave-it," "drop," or "quiet." The nice thing about this sign is it is clearly different from the others, making it less confusing for your dog.


Hand Out
This is usually used as a cue to get your dog to "shake" or "high-five." However, for a deaf dog, you may use it to mean "come to me" or "bring me your toy" as well.


Two Fingers Pointed at Eyes
You know the hand-to-eye signal the use in comedies to say "I am watching you"? Well, you could use this same gesture to get your deaf dog to "watch you", i.e. give eye contact.


Call Me
Another uncommon signal, this one would be cute for a recall or "watch me" cue. Again, it's a nice symbol to use because it doesn't look like the others, make it easier on your dog to learn.

BASIC DOG COMMANDS
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Having a trained dog isn't the same as having a balanced dog, but if your dog knows a few basic commands, it can be helpful when tackling problem behavior, existing ones or those that may develop in the future. So where do you start with dog obedience training? You could take a class, but it's not necessary - you can do it yourself. In fact, with the right attitude, it can be fun for both you and your dog!


Sit!
This is one of the easiest dog obedience commands to teach, so it's a good one to start with.

Hold a treat close to your dog's nose.

Move your hand up, allowing his head to follow the treat and causing his bottom to lower.

Once he's in sitting position, say "Sit," give him the treat, and share affection.

Repeat this sequence a few times every day until your dog has it mastered. Then ask your dog to sit before mealtime, when leaving for walks, and during other situations where you'd like him calm and seated.


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Come!
This command can help keep a dog out of trouble, bringing him back to you if you lose grip on the leash or accidentally leave the front door open.

Put a leash and collar on your dog.

Go down to his level and say, "Come!" while gently pulling on the leash.

When he gets to you, reward him with affection and a treat.

Once he's mastered it with the leash, remove it and practice the command in a safe, enclosed area.


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Down!
This can be one of the more difficult commands in dog obedience training. Why? Because the position is a submissive posture. You can help by keeping training positive and relaxed, particularly with fearful or anxious dogs.

Find a particularly good smelling treat, and hold it in your closed fist.

Hold your hand up to your dog's snout. When he sniffs it, move your hand to the floor, so he follows.

Then slide your hand along the ground in front of him to encourage his body to follow his head.

Once he's in the down position, say "Down", give him the treat, and share affection.

Repeat it every day. If your dog tries to sit up or lunges toward your hand, say "No" and take your hand away. Don't push him into a down position, and encourage every step your dog takes toward the right position. After all, he's working hard to figure it out!


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Stay!
Before attempting this one, make sure your dog is an expert at the "Sit" command.

First, ask your dog to "Sit."

Then open the palm of your hand in front of you, and say "Stay."

Take a few steps back. Reward him with a treat and affection if he stays.

Gradually increase the number of steps you take before giving the treat.

Always reward your pup for staying put, even if it's just for a few seconds.

This is an exercise in self-control for your dog, so don't be discouraged if it takes a while to master, particularly for puppies and high-energy dogs. After all, they want to be on the move and not just sitting there waiting.


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Leave it
This can help keep your dog safe when his curiosity gets the better of him, like if he smells something intriguing but possibly dangerous on the ground! The goal is to teach your pup that he gets something even better for ignoring the other item.

Place a treat in both hands.

Show him one enclosed fist with the treat inside, and say, "Leave it."


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Let him lick, sniff, mouth, paw, and bark to try to get it and ignore the behaviors.

Once he stops trying, give him the treat from the other hand.

Repeat until your dog moves away from that first fist when you say, "Leave it."

Next, only give your dog the treat when he moves away from that first fist and also looks up at you.

Once your dog consistently moves away from the first treat and gives you eye contact when you say the command, you're ready to take it up a notch. For this, use two different treats: one that's just all right and one that's a particularly good smelling and tasty favorite for your pup.


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Say "Leave it," place the less attractive treat on the floor, and cover it with your hand.

Wait until your dog ignores that treat and looks at you. Then remove that treat from the floor, give him the better treat and share affection immediately.

Once he's got it, place the less tasty treat on the floor, but don't completely cover it with your hand. Instead hold it a little bit above the treat. Over time, gradually move your hand farther and farther away until your hand is about 6 inches above.

Now he's ready to practice with you standing up! Follow the same steps, but if he tries to snatch the less tasty treat, cover it with your foot.

Don't rush the process. Remember, you're asking a lot of your dog. If you take it up a notch and he's really struggling, go back to the previous stage.


Home Alone!



No Digging!

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Come Back!

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Off the Furniture!

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Foo The Poo!

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No Jump!

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Wait!

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Chest Harness & Head Halter

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